When large trees are planted directly under power lines the utility companies will hack them back with no regard for for aesthetics.  In general, it is always best to avoid placing trees too close to any utilities or permanent structures.

Here are a few guidelines and things to remember:

1) In addition to being aware of overhead wires, always call for underground utility locates (dial 811 in Colorado) prior to doing any digging or planting any trees.  These fine folks will come to your property and locate with markings all of the underground utilities.

2) Consider the full mature size of the tree.  Many trees are planted at 1-1/2″ to 2″ caliper size, and look quite small when first planted.  But in 10-20 years many full size trees grow to heights over 40′ tall.  Evergreen trees like Colorado Blue Spruce get very wide at the base (20 feet wide or more), and I often see them planted too close to buildings or utilities.

3) Consult with a local professional for advice. You local nursery or landscape architect will be happy to share ideas on other options to landscape the area, or for varieties of trees that grow shorter or narrower.  There are some trees such as Chanticleer Pear that grow very narrow and compact- you might be able to offset these trees a few feet from the overhead lines and avoid major future conflicts.

4) If in doubt, stick with groundcover, perennials, or ornamental grasses. These plants have shallow root structures and non-woody branches that are more forgiving to the objects around them.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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• Spring Clean-Up: The Most Important Landscape Maintenance Tasks for Spring

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Most of this is treated water that has gone through a long and expensive process of being collected and travelling through a complex system of catch basins, detention ponds and storm drains.

Next, the water is treated at a water treatment facility to the point where is certified drinking-quality tap water- often it is of better quality than what you would buy in a bottled water.

Finally, the water leaves the facility and travels through a DIFFERENT extensive system of pipes to your home or business.  The system, and all of the maintenance on it, is paid for by you the taxpayer.

Why then, would you design or maintain a landscape that sheds drinking quality water every day right back into the storm drain?

Water Running off Into the Gutter

Narrow islands like the one above should never have sod on them.  This photo was taken at a commercial site where there are literally dozens of these island.  Judging by how green the grass is, most likely they are getting watered like this twice a day.  In a future post I will give some calculations on typical water use-  but it is safe to say this property is sending  thousands of gallons of water down the drain every day.

Two other problems with this photo:

1)  The fact that they are “raised” islands makes the situation worse.  Water will quickly run off the slope before it is absorbed by the soil and lawn.

2)  Notice the cracking in the curb-  What is the number 1 cause of damage on parking lots and curbs?  Water.  The daily dousing of the curbs and asphalt will cause big maintenance costs.

ALTERNATIVES

• First off- never design the landscaping this way.  We never design turf areas within parking lot islands unless there is an areas that is flat, and over 8 feet in width.
• This property can be renovated to save water.  The renovation will save the owner in watering costs and landscape maintenance costs- while also limiting the amount of water damage to the asphalt and curbs.
• Here is an example of an alternative design, using Xeriscape planting on drip irrigation:
  

  A Low Water-Use Xeriscape Parking Lot Island

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

Related Posts:

• How to Design Your Landscape to be a Sponge for Rainwater
• Using Aerial Photos to View a Water Saving Landscape Renovation – Before and After
• What Not to Do- Placing Irrigation Heads Next to Fencing
• Save Money and Water by Converting Sod to Xeriscape
• Photo of the Day – Creative Use of Logs for a Stream Crossing

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One of the ways that I challenge myself to learn and to stay on top of the latest trends is to keep my eyes open for good and bad designs and ideas as I travel around my area or out of town.

The fence on the right is located near my home, in what appears to be an HOA (home owner’s association) maintained area next to a single family housing development.  This is just one example of fences like this that can be found all over Denver.  The root of the problem is that they have put sod directly against a wooden fence.  Sod is typically irrigated by overhead spray and the water from the irrigation is discoloring and deteriorating the fence.

Problems with placing irrigation heads directly next to fencing

• Discolored fencing is unattractive:  Obviously this is an aesthetics issue- these fences are a real eye-sore for these developments and the surrounding community.
• Shorter lifespan of the fence:  Water is one of the most damaging elements for a fence.  Irrigation systems often run every day, which discolors the fence and causes the wood to rot much sooner than it would naturally.  The ground around the posts also gets saturated, which causes the posts to rot and even break off at the ground during high winds.
• Boring design:  This type of street frontage design lacks creativity, and does not distinguish a place as unique for pedestrians or vehicles traveling by.  Shrubs and ornamental grasses could be used instead to provide more visual interest-  and choosing locally adapted or native plants give the area a stronger sense of place.  These plantings also can help screen an older fence that is deteriorating.
• Additional landscape maintenance:  Another less obvious issue with putting sod directly against a fence is that it requires additional maintenance to go back and trim the lawn at the bottom of the fence, where mowers can not get close enough to the fence.

Solutions

• Avoid planning and designing landscapes in this way.  Instead of putting sod directly against the fence, design a planting bed that is a minimum of 5′ wide (or wider, depending on the design) against the base of the fence.  Separate sod areas from the bed with an edger, and locate the irrigation spray heads at this new edge.
• If planting is not an option, then create a simple 2′ wide rock mulch strip on each side of the fence.  Again, seperate this area from sod by using an edger and place irrigation outside of this strip.
• If you have an existing property with this problem, hire a landscape architect that specializes in site renovations (we would be an excellent choice) to design a renovation solution that meets your needs.
• Use drip irrigation for any planting beds against a fence.  If there is no way to avoid having sod against your fence, consider using a sub-surface drip irrigation system that is designed for sod areas.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

Related Posts:

• What Not to Do – Turfgrass in Parking Lot Islands
• Photo of the Day – Creative Use of Logs for a Stream Crossing
• Building a Deck – What is the Best Decking Material?
• Why Do Water Providers Want You to Use Less Water?
• How to Design Your Landscape to be a Sponge for Rainwater

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