A beautiful deck starts with careful planning and design.  The best looking deck often reflects some architectural elements from the house and uses them in the deck.  If you have multiple decks on your home consider using matching handrails and decking material for uniformity.  Consult with your builder or designer for the many options available today.

Overall deck costs tend to range from $25-$35 per square foot and cost varies due to height and complexity of construction.  The cheapest decking material on the market is probably pressure treated pine the most expensive include exotic hardwood species and top-end coated composite decking.  Here is a quick run-down on some of the decking materials available:

Decking Materials:

Redwood – soft wood prone to damage from hail, includes the removal of old growth forests that take centuries to recover.  Redwood takes hundreds of years to mature and therefore is not a sustainable wood source.  Redwood coast around $3-4 per linear foot depending upon the quality ordered.

IPE – Brazilian rainforest lumber that is very dense (hard) and durable.  It has a dark color and requires pre-drilling for fasteners.  I do not know of any that is sustainably grown / harvested lumber.  IPE costs around $4 per linear foot depending on thickness used.

Tigerwood – Brazillian or African rainforest lumber that is very dense (hard) and durable.  It has a light dark color variation (tiger striping) and requires pre-drilling for fasteners.  I do not know of any that is sustainably grown / harvested lumber.  Tigerwood costs around $4 per linear foot depending on thickness used.

Cedar – Soft wood prone to damage from hail, be sure to specify better grades of wood and tight knot or better, can come rough sawn for beams or trimmers and  works well for handrails.   Tight knot cedar cost around $2 per linear foot and the price almost doubles for clear cedar.

Pressure treated pine:  Typically made from southern yellow pine which is pressure treated forcing chemicals into the wood that resist rotting and insect damage.  The treatments usually contain copper compounds & other chemicals that are highly corrosive to metals, so extra zinc treatment to galvanized fasteners is recommended to avoid rusting.  Older treated wood, produced prior to 2004, often contain arsenic & chromium which can be easily released if burned.  It is important to allow the wood to dry out prior to staining or sealing.  Pressure treated wood is prone to warping, splitting and twisting and these qualities seem to be exacerbated in dry climates.  I believe that staining & sealing these woods can help their look and performance.  P.T. pine should be either screwed in place nailed with 16d ring shank nails all fasteners should be hot dipped galvanized.

Composite:

Should you use real wood or composite decking?  In the last ten years composite decking materials (plastic/ wood particles glued together) have taken hold of the market and are used on over half the decks being built.  Several companies use 90% recycled plastics in their products which will help reduce waste.  However, I do not know of any composites that are recyclable when they need replacement.  If decking could be continually recycled it would truly be a sustainable product, but no companies, to my knowledge, have produced such a product.  All composite decking materials rely on a type of adhesive or glue that bond all of the plastic and wood particles together.  These adhesives can be any number of polymers(resin) some which can cause environmental concern if released into the environment especially if burned.  The life span of composite decking is similar to a wood deck that is maintained, around 25 years.  Eventually all decking materials will end up in a landfill.

There are around ten different companies producing composite deck materials in the U.S. with Trex being one of the first and widely know.  These materials include decking and handrail systems and most companies offer different product lines that vary in color and consistency.  One California company even offers a bamboo composite BamDeck which uses 30% bamboo and 70% recycled plastic.

The cost of composite decking varies from $2-$4 per linear foot of decking board.  Common sizes for composite decking boards are 12’, 16’, 18’ and some 24’ lengths are available from certain manufacturers.  Try to design your deck so that no butt joints are required.  Composite boards require spacing butt joints from 1/8”-1/4” for board expansion which can be unsightly.

THE GOOD

• Composite decking does not require as much maintenance as natural wood products.
• Does not splinter or split.
• Have built in slip resistance.
• Are consistent in color, shape, and texture.
• Grooved boards can utilize hidden fastener systems which are attractive.
• Boards can be heated and bent into circular patterns.
• Boards are often made with recycled plastic materials up to 90%, which make it more sustainable.

THE BAD

• Boards without a pvc treatment are prone to staining from many different sources.  PVC treatments usually cost around $1 more per linear foot of board.
• Material holds heat and can reach temperatures that will burn bare feet in the summer.
• Material is not structural and typically requires a maximum joist spacing of 16 inches, which also limits what can be done with handrails.
• Material shrinks and swells more that wood which requires spacing at butt joints if used.
• Material requires pre-drilling in many circumstances for fasteners.
• Catastrophic failure, rapid deterioration is possible and almost all manufacturers have had to warranty their product for this reason at one time.
• Material is not recyclable.
• Polymers used to glue product together can be harmful if released into the environment, i.e. burning.

People often ask me what is the best composite to use and to be honest I don’t know.  The reason for this is that almost all of the companies making composite materials have produced materials that have failed and needed to be replaced.

In 2009 Louisiana Pacific recalled around 48 million linear foot of decking that was sold under three different trade names (WeatherBest®, ABTCo., and Veranda®).  Many other companies have had warranty claims for products that are less than five years old.  When composite decking fails you will often notice that the color comes off like chalk when you rub it with a finger.

Once composite decking boards start to fail, they can simply start to rot or you may notice flaking, splits, bubbling or other abnormalities.  Boards can also break between joists in extreme failures causing injury.  Warranties vary from company to company, but in general you can expect a limited 20 year warranty.  One thing to note is that the manufacturer’s warranty will only cover material replacement, not labor to remove the old boards and replace them, which can be a substantial cost.  Therefore, do your homework and make an informed decision based on a company’s track record.

Some things you should consider if you are planning to use composite decking:

• Texture (slip resistance) especially in frost prone areas.
• Color – try to compliment your homes color.  Most composite deck materials fade 30% in the first year and then stabilize.  Some even change color so look at samples that have been weathered when possible.
• Cost – almost everyone is on a budget so pick the best material you can afford.
• Warranty – since there have been failures in the past research the company’s products that you are considering and find out their track record and read the fine print on warranties.
• Maintenance – consult manufacturer’s suggestions but most can be cleaned with mild soaps and water.

There are a lot of things to consider when it comes time to build or replace a deck.  A new deck can cost as much as a new car so take the time to weigh your options and hire a competent builder.  I suggest that you not only talk with a builder’s past client but also take the time to see one of their completed projects.

No decking is completely environmentally friendly or sustainable.  In general, many of the natural wood decking products available are from hardwoods or slow growing softwoods which make them less sustainable.  Pressure treated southern yellow pine is a faster growing, more sustainable wood product but it utilizes chemicals for rot and insect resistance.  If the composite decking industry can develop a product that is recyclable and will consistently perform it will climb to the top of the sustainability chart and my “A” list.

This is a guest post by Bruce Kehr.  The owner of Sunlit Builders, LLC, Bruce is one of the top deck builders in Colorado.  You can reach Bruce via email at info@sunlitbuilders.com.

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• How to Design Your Landscape to be a Sponge for Rainwater
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• 5 Reasons to Reconsider your Hatred of Juniper Bushes
• Arvada Residential Landscape Makeover
• Collecting Rainwater Still Illegal in Much of Colorado

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But should ornamental grasses be cut back to the ground in winter?

Most ornamental grasses develop tall seed heads late in the summer that naturally persist through the winter.  When temperatures start to drop the plant will die back, leaving the dried foliage, stalks, and seed heads.  The general rule that you should cut back the grasses before the next growing season, so that the new year’s growth will be more vigorous and healthy.

I have found a couple of exceptions to this here in the Denver area, particularly with Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima), which did not regenerate as well or look as good the year after I cut it back.  I have since started leaving it uncut, which results is the new growth coming up right through the beautiful finely textured golden old growth.  But with most varieties, they should be cut back before new growth starts in the spring.

So the question, then, is whether you should cut them back in the fall, or wait until the spring.  Many people enjoy the colors and movement that these elements provide in winter.  Others prefer a more “neat” or formal look.

I thought it would be interesting to explore the advantages each approach:

Advantages of leaving the grasses for the winter and waiting until the spring to cut them back

• When shrubs lose their leaves, and perennials wither to the ground, grasses can provide form in the landscape
• Texture:  Interesting textures can stand out, collecting frost or snow, and reflecting sunlight
• Movement:  Winter winds and soft breezes can move and sway the stems and seed heads of ornamental grasses
• The grasses can add color to the drab winter landscape, including shades of reds, yellows, browns, and blues
• Upright grasses can be used to help screen views when deciduous plants have lost their leaves
• The grasses can provide habitat and shelter for birds and other small animals

Advantages of cutting back ornamental grasses right away in the fall or early winter

• This can be interesting and different look, I have seen some nice formal plantings that looked stunning with the grasses cut back
• Some grasses hold their form better than others, while some varieties may flop over under heavy snow
• Cutting them back may give the impression (rightly or wrongly) that a commercial landscape is being better maintained
• In some cases the grasses may block sight lines, such as to important signage in a shopping center
• In high foot traffic areas, it may be beneficial to cut back ornamental grasses to avoid them being trampled

So what do you think, is one method better than the other?  My personal taste is to leave the grasses up all winter, but there are situations where you may want to cut them back.  And you can always decide to cut them back later, if you feel the need to tidy them up.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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Aunt Bethany:  Is your house on fire, Clark?
Clark:  No, Aunt Bethany, those are the Christmas lights.

While anyone can load their house up with a gazillion flashing holiday lights and plastic reindeer, there is a lot of planning and work that goes into decorating a home tastefully for the holidays.

Ideally, the entire curb appeal should work together to create a scene that enhances the building and looks like it belongs there.  The shrubs, trees, and other landscaping (along with the structure) are important elements to the scene you are creating.

So, how can landscaping enhance the holiday decor?  Here are 5 ways to plan your landscape to work well with holiday decorations.

1.  Select plants that have good winter interest

Try to use a variety of plants that not only look good in the summer, but also have good winter interest.  There are many trees and shrubs available that have interesting bark and stem color (think red twig dogwood).

Utilize ornamental grasses, shrubs, and perennials that will catch the snow on their stems and branches.  On a cold day or night the snow will glisten in the sunlight or from the glow of holiday lights.

Also, use a mixture of evergreen and semi-evergreen shrubs.  Semi-evergreen shrubs are those such as Fernbush and Broom that have green stems and whose leaves may persist into the winter.

2. Add power receptacles to outdoor spaces and planting beds

Consider adding outlets to the outside of your home (remember to use the GFCI type outdoors), and even running them off of switches that give you the ability to turn them on and off from inside the home.

If you are building a new home, and you intend to run a lot of holiday lights remember to up-size your breaker box accordingly (or you might end up like Clark Griswold).

If you have a large lot and you want to have lighting a long distance from the home, you might add GFCI outlets in selected landscape beds, or below trees that you wish to light.  These can be installed on low wooden posts so that they are not noticeable during the day.

3. Create “layering” in the landscape

Many of the same considerations that go into good landscape design are also applicable here.  You want to think about how a visitor or viewer of your holiday decorations will experience and move through the space- do you live on a busy highway where viewers will be primarily be in cars and moving at high speeds?  Or are you in a more intimate setting where you will have pedestrians and visitors that come to your front door- or both?

Layering in the landscape is created by having foreground, mid-ground, and background plantings.  Holiday decorations can be arranged in the same way, with lights and clusters of decorations placed on and around the landscape elements.

4. Tree selection and placement

As you already know, there are numerous ways to hang lights and decorations on trees in the landscape.  Deciduous trees can be draped with handing lights, or lights can be wrapped around trunks.  And evergreens can be decorated like Christmas trees.

Remember that in the winter there will be no leaves on deciduous trees, so consider placing evergreen trees and shrubs to screen utility areas and to block an undesirable views.

Also, evergreen shrubs and trees that are not lighted can be used as a dark backdrop for lighted decorations.

5. Utilize traditional landscape lighting for holiday decoration

This is a good one for commercial properties as well as houses.  Landscaping lighting such as path lights, up-lighting, and flood lighting can be a beautiful way to accent a building and landscaping all year round.  If you have a nice lighting setup already in place, then you can simply swap out red and green bulbs or lenses for the holidays.

A few good examples of this might be doing a light “wash” of a building wall with colored light, using up-lights at the base of a tree to highlight the trunk and branches, or replacing house number lights with colored bulbs.

Of course, there are many other considerations, but this list is a good starting point.  Do you have any other ideas?  Let us know below in the comments.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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• The 2 Common Types of Rebates Available for Renovating Your Landscaping to Save Water
• The Best Plants for High Altitude Landscaping

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Population growth is straining water supplies and delivery systems, causing many water providers to provide great incentives to reduce water use.  Homeowner’s, businesses, and HOA’s are also looking for ways to trim their budgets and increase their long-term sustainability.

But landscape renovations can get expensive.  Thankfully, there are some great rebates out there that you can take advantage of to help offset the costs.  When you factor in the rebates, as well as significant water and maintenance savings, a landscape renovation can make a lot of sense for your property.

Irrigation Upgrades vs. Turf Removal

Most of the rebates out there focus on 2 main areas: Irrigation Upgrades and Turf Removal.

Irrigation upgrade rebates are offered to water customers to increase the efficiency of their irrigation systems.  Rebates are often offered to install more efficient spray nozzles, rain sensors, and controllers.

The rebates for these items are usually calculated per item installed, for example, $5 per efficient rotary nozzle, and $50 for a rain sensor.  For larger commercial properties there are often limit to the maximum rebate that can be obtained.

Turf removal rebates are geared toward removing areas of high water-use landscaping (usually lawns and turfgrass) and replacing those areas with low water-use landscaping.  The replacement landscaping can consist of  Xeriscape, native plants, and a variety of colorful shrubs, perennials, trees, and ornamental grasses.

This approach has the ability to lower water use dramatically, as the landscape itself is being changed to REQUIRE less water to be healthy.  As such, the rebates offered for a turf removal landscape renovation are generally much higher.

Turf removal rebates are usually calculated based on the square feet of the area being changed, for example $1.50 or $2.50 per square foot of area that is changed from high water-use to low water-use.  The total amount available varies by water provider or City, and can be a couple thousand dollars to as much as $25,000 and more for larger properties.

When pursuing a turf removal type rebate, a good landscape design can be very beneficial and is often required in order to get the rebate.  Most rebates require that the replacement landscaping consist of a variety of low water-use plantings that will help to create an interesting and beautiful replacement landscape.

Consider hiring a professional landscape architect- In most cases the rebate you receive will more than pay for the services of a professional, and your experience will be a lot more enjoyable.  In some cases, additional rebates are offered to customers who use a professional to do the design.

It takes a little bit of research to figure out which rebate is right for you, but in the end a rebate can be a great way to offset the cost of renovating your landscaping.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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• The Top 10 Benefits of Making Landscaping More Water Efficient
• Xeriscape Rebate Programs Provide a Great Opportunity for HOA’s and other Property Owners

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If  you read my Fall landscape maintenance tips, you know that I am not a proponent of keeping the landscape perfectly tidy over the winter.  Now that spring is here, among other things you will need to clean your beds of those leftover leaves, and cut back your perennials and grasses.

Key Dates

• Early May:  Time to start up that irrigation system.  Resist the temptation to start your sprinklers before May 1st.  In Colorado, we generally get plenty of moisture in March and April so lawns do not generally need supplemental water yet and it will go to waste.  Many shrubs and perennials are only just beginning to emerge.

Trees and Shrubs

• Remove winter tree wrap from any trees.  Now would also be a good time to remove tree stakes that were put in place last season.
• Don’t prune trees and shrubs in the spring.  They are budding out and are susceptible to more stress and damage at this time.  I find that it can also be difficult to tell whether a branch is dead or alive without physically checking each one, since the leaves have not yet emerged.  Wait until late summer or fall to remove any dead branches and to do any other pruning.
• Before you start your irrigation system remember to check soil moisture, and give trees and shrubs extra water if needed.  In typical years you will not need to water in the spring, but if the weather has been dry or warm you should keep an eye on soil moisture.

Perennials and Ornamental Grasses

• Cut back perennials and grasses so that they will regenerate bigger and better than before.  For perennials, cut them back to about 2″ above the ground.   For woody
  

  Woody perennials like Russian Sage may not completely die back

  perennials,such as Russian Sage, some of the old growth will often begin to leaf out and you can leave more of the existing plant to re-grow.

• When cutting back ornamental grasses, a rule of thumb that I like to use is to cut them back to 1/5th (or 20%) of their maximum height.  Feather Reed Grass, for example, grows to a height of 4-5′, so you would cut them back to 10-12″ height.
• You can begin to “divide and conquer”!  Divide up fall-blooming perennials and grasses and transplant them throughout the landscape-  This gives them time to grow this season, so that in the late summer you will have new plants to enjoy.
• Remove excess mulch and leaf scraps from around the bases of plants, along with any extra mulch that was placed around plants to protect them over the winter.  Spring is the wettest time of the year, and the mulch is needed the least at this time.  Leaving excess organic material around the bases of plants in spring can cause root rot, mold, and insect damage.

Lawns

• I like to rake the lawn areas once really well in the spring to clean up any leftover sticks, pine needles, etc.  In the summer I use a self-mulching lawnmower that mulches and re-deposits the clippings in place rather than bagging them.  However the first time I mow in the spring I like to attach the bagger to suck up any new clippings and other debris left over from the winter.

Cut grasses back to 1/5th of their full height

• Consider aerating your lawn.  Aeration allows greater movement of water, fertilizer, and air which stimulates healthy turf.  Aerating also increases the speed of decomposition of the grass clippings and enhances deep root growth.  Compacted soil especially benefits from core aerating.  Be sure to mark the locations of sprinkler heads with flags prior to aerating so that they will not get damaged.
• You may want to fertilize your lawn in the spring to give it a boost.  Don’t over do it though, because fertilizer can wash off of your lawn and the runoff can be harmful to water supplies and wildlife
• Remove dandelions and other weeds before they go to seed and spread throughout your yard, or your neighbors yard.
• Assess the size and configuration of your lawn, and how much water you used this year to keep it green (or, brown?).   Consult with a landscape architect about how you canredesign your landscape to make it more attractive, sustainable, and functional.

Planting Beds

• Weed control in bed areas is very important in the spring.  You will want to get a leg up on the weeds now, while the soil is soft and easy to work with and the weeds are small.  If weeds are allowed to “run wild” throughout the spring you will have a maintenance headache later in the summer.  Weed control can be a fast and easy task if it is done correctly from the start of the year through the end.

Irrigation

• Pressurize your irrigation system and check for and leaks and for proper spray distribution.  Adjust the angle and throw of sprinkler heads.  Check irrigation equipment for clogged nozzles and sprinkler heads for damage.  Realign heads if necessary.   Examine any drip irrigation to make sure there are no leaks or other issues, and plan to make regular check-ups on your irrigation system throughout the season.

Spring Weather Considerations

• Watch for those freak spring snowstorms!  Trees and shrubs that are flowering and/or leafing out will catch the heavy wet spring snow on their branches, often causing serious damage due to limbs breaking off.

Other

• Check any metal edging to make sure that it is has not heaved over the winter.  If it has heaved, you should repair it.  Edging keeps the sod from creeping into landscape beds areas, which can be a maintenance nightmare if it gets out of hand.   Metal edging can also be a safety hazard to pets and children.  If you have a plastic protective cap on your edging, inspect it and replace it if necessary.
• If you follow all of the above recommendations you will end up with a lot of organic material and cuttings as a result of your spring cleanup.  If you have the space for it, consider composting this material.  Or, rather than throwing the material away to go in the landfill, check to see if there is a local recycling center that will take the material to compost it.

Spring cleanup is a time honored tradition among gardeners, as an excuse to get outside after the long winter months and to freshen up the landscape as it springs to life.  With Xeriscape, spring maintenance is even more important.   Since Xeriscape requires less regular maintenance through the summer, it is critical to get the summer started off right so that your Xeriscape will require very little maintenance throughout the year.

Regardless of the landscape style that you are maintaining, if you start off on the right foot in the spring you will be well on your way a beautiful landscape to enjoy throughout the coming year.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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• Should Ornamental Grasses be Cut Back for the Winter?
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• What Not to Do – Planting a Large Tree Directly Under Power Lines

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When large trees are planted directly under power lines the utility companies will hack them back with no regard for for aesthetics.  In general, it is always best to avoid placing trees too close to any utilities or permanent structures.

Here are a few guidelines and things to remember:

1) In addition to being aware of overhead wires, always call for underground utility locates (dial 811 in Colorado) prior to doing any digging or planting any trees.  These fine folks will come to your property and locate with markings all of the underground utilities.

2) Consider the full mature size of the tree.  Many trees are planted at 1-1/2″ to 2″ caliper size, and look quite small when first planted.  But in 10-20 years many full size trees grow to heights over 40′ tall.  Evergreen trees like Colorado Blue Spruce get very wide at the base (20 feet wide or more), and I often see them planted too close to buildings or utilities.

3) Consult with a local professional for advice. You local nursery or landscape architect will be happy to share ideas on other options to landscape the area, or for varieties of trees that grow shorter or narrower.  There are some trees such as Chanticleer Pear that grow very narrow and compact- you might be able to offset these trees a few feet from the overhead lines and avoid major future conflicts.

4) If in doubt, stick with groundcover, perennials, or ornamental grasses. These plants have shallow root structures and non-woody branches that are more forgiving to the objects around them.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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• Should Ornamental Grasses be Cut Back for the Winter?
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• Spring Clean-Up: The Most Important Landscape Maintenance Tasks for Spring

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Juniper bushes are common in older landscapes. Here they were not given adequate room, so they have been sheared off along the walkway.

Why is this?  I think there are a few main reasons, aside from the fact that they are prickly beasts that we have all tangled with a one point (either landing in one while playing as a kid, or getting that annoying rash on your arm while trimming them) :

1) They were simply overused in the past.  People are just tired of them and want something unique and new.  And since they live for ages and rarely die, they are often the only living survivors guarding the front doors of homes in any older neighborhood.

2) They were not planted with enough room to grow.  Many of the varieties get quite large after say, 20 years, and quickly outgrow the planting bed.  Because they grow too large for their setting they require excessive pruning to keep them at a manageable size.  This pruning then exposes all of the dead old growth inside the base of the plant- ugly!

3) The aforementioned prickliness.   And good luck getting the baseball you were tossing around out of the center of that green monster.

Given these negatives, why then should you consider using Juniper plants in your landscape?

1)  They require little water and are very well adapted to the western and southwestern United States.  That is why in places like Eastern Colorado (where few woody plants survive, and water is a scarce resource) they are used by landowners and farmers for windbreaks.  They are an excellent Xeriscape plant.

When used correctly, such as in this Denver Xeriscape, Junipers can be an attractive addition to the landscape.

2)  They are long-lived plants.  In some places native specimens have lived for several hundred years in the wild.

3)  Given an appropriate amount of space, they require almost no maintenance.

4)  They are evergreen, so they provide good winter interest.  They can be used to add texture and scale to a landscape, and make terrific visual screens, hedges, and windbreaks.

5)  There are many forms and colors available that offer endless design possibilities, ranging from narrow upright forms to low mat-forming spreading varieties, and everything in between.  Colors can range from dark green, to blue-gray, to bright green, to yellow green, with some varieties changing to purplish-red shades in the winter months.

So, the next time you decide to tear out those old Juniper shrubs, consider re-introducing them into your new landscape design to enjoy all of the benefits these versatile plants have to offer.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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Delosperma (Red Mountain and Mesa Verde Iceplant) and Actostaphylos x coloradoensis (Panchito Manzanita)

Dry Xeriscape Garden

Erigonum umbellatum (Kannah Creek Buckwheat)

Delosperma (Red Mountain and Mesa Verde Iceplant)

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

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Below is a photo slideshow with before and after images of a residential landscape renovation that we completed in fall of last year:

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

Related Posts:

• Building a Deck – What is the Best Decking Material?
• How to Design Your Landscape to be a Sponge for Rainwater
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• Going from “builder bushes” to an Attractive and Unique Landscape

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photo of a converted xeriscape that was previously a lawn area

The City of Aurora, Colorado and Aurora Water have been pioneers in water conservation through supporting regionally appropriate landscape design.  Outdoor Design Group has been actively involved with the program for the last couple of years.  For 2010, the Xeriscape Rebate program has been allocated $250,000 dollars for rebates to convert high water use landscapes (sod, turf, or lawn) to Xeriscape.

In past posts on this blog, I have documented the money and water savings and given examples of the beauty of these landscapes.  Each site is different, but in general you can expect a reduction in irrigation water use of 30-70%, and a 20-40% reduction of landscape maintenance costs.  This is a great opportunity for HOA’s, commercial properties, and homeowners to achieve long-term savings, in addition to acquiring the rebates.

Here are some key aspects of the 2010 program, from Aurora Water’s website:

• Xeriscape is a great landscape option for our climate because of its reduced watering needs and ability to tolerate periods of drought.
• In addition to decreased water consumption and resilience to drought, Xeriscape has the potential to significantly decrease time and resources expended on maintenance.
• Aurora Water customers interested in Xeriscape as a landscape alternative may be eligible for a rebate of up to $1 per square foot for turf grass that is replaced with low water use plant material.
• $250,000 has been allocated for the 2010 season. The maximum square footage (rebate) is $10,000 for residential and $25,000 for commercial and large properties such as Homeowner’s Associations and multi-family dwellings.

For commercial and large properties such as home owners associations- the program requires that you haver a plan prepared by a licensed landscape architect.  This is a good idea anyway, as a landscape architect can help you prepare a budget and phasing for the project before you commit to a contractor to do the installation.  Landscape architects are also good at communicating what the new landscape will look like- through the use of plans, photos, drawings, and presentations.

Aurora is an ideal community for a rebate program like this, because there are many older landscapes were built in the 1970′s, 80′s and 90′s, and are ready for a renovation simply to update the look of outdated properties.  Although most new landscape codes mandate low water use landscaping, that was not the case in the past-  many older landscapes were designed in a way that requires large amounts of water and maintenance.

But Aurora is far from alone in offering this type of program.  Water supplies are stretched extremely thin throughout most of the Western United States.  A simple Google search for “Xeriscape rebate” brings up 26,400 results.  Similar programs exist throughout Colorado, California, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and elsewhere.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

Related Posts:

• The 2 Common Types of Rebates Available for Renovating Your Landscaping to Save Water
• Using Aerial Photos to View a Water Saving Landscape Renovation – Before and After
• Xeriscape Rebate Programs Provide a Great Opportunity for HOA’s and other Property Owners
• Save Money and Water by Converting Sod to Xeriscape
• Compliance with New ADA Standards May Mean Costly Renovations

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