Compliance with New ADA Standards May Mean Costly Renovations

by Matt Corrion

On March 15, 2012, facilities across the United States must comply with the revised ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) design standards adopted in the 2010 Standards for Accessible Design.

The 2010 Standards set minimum requirements for newly designed and constructed or altered State or local government facilities, public accommodations, and commercial facilities to be readily accessible to and usable by individuals with disabilities.

I have reviewed the new standards, and they are pretty extensive.  Property owners and designers should be aware of some of the changes that will be required when constructing or altering a facility.

The provision requiring accessible means of entry/exit for swimming pools has gained a lot of attention.  On March 15th, the US Attorney General signed an extension of 60 days for this particular provision, while also opening up a public comment period.

The swimming pool provision, along with other key new provisions, as taken from the ADA website, include:

2. Recreational Boating Facilities (Sections 235, 1003)

If boat slips are provided at a boating facility, the minimum number that must be accessible depends upon the size of the facility. Accessible boat slips must be dispersed throughout the various types of boat slips.

Where boarding piers are provided at boat launch ramps, at least 5% (but no fewer than one) must be accessible. Gangways that are part of a required accessible route are to be accessible, subject to certain enumerated exceptions.

4. Fishing Piers and Platforms (Sections 237, 1005)

Newly designed, newly constructed, or altered fishing piers must provide accessible routes, subject to the same exceptions permitted for gangways. At least 25% of guardrails or handrails must be no higher than 34 inches and must be dispersed. Clear floor or ground space must be provided at each accessible railing, and turning space must be provided on the pier.

5. Golf Facilities (Sections 238, 1006)

Newly constructed and altered golf facilities must have either an accessible route or golf car passages with a minimum width of 48 inches connecting accessible elements and spaces within the boundary of the golf course. An accessible route must be provided to the golf car rental area, bag drop-off areas, and other elements that are outside the boundary of the golf course. One or two teeing grounds (depending on the total number provided) per hole must be accessible.

If weather shelters are provided, a golf car must be able to enter and exit the shelters. Certain percentages of practice teeing grounds, practice teeing stations at driving ranges, and putting greens must be accessible.

6. Miniature Golf (Sections 239, 1007)

At least fifty percent of all holes on a miniature golf course must be accessible. These accessible holes must be consecutive, and they must be on an accessible route. The last accessible hole must be on an accessible route that connects to the course entrance or exit without going back through other holes.

7. Play Areas (Sections 240, 1008)

Play areas designed, constructed, and altered for children ages two and over in a variety of settings, including parks, schools, childcare facilities, and shopping centers, are covered.

Accessible ground and elevated play components, accessible routes, ramps and transfer systems (typically a platform or transfer steps), and accessible ground surfaces must be provided.

8. Swimming Pools, Wading Pools, and Spas (Sections 242, 1009)

Accessible means of entry/exit are required for swimming pools. Such accessible means of entry include a pool lift or sloped entry, and either a transfer wall, transfer system, or pool stairs. Wading pools must provide a sloped entry, and spas must provide a pool lift, transfer wall, or transfer system. Wave action pools, leisure rivers, and sand bottom pools where user access is limited to one area shall not be required to provide more than one accessible means of entry, either a pool lift, sloped entry, or a transfer system.

 This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

14 Programs That Pay You Money to Install Water Efficient Landscaping

by Matt Corrion

You may have heard that you can save big bucks on water and maintenance by renovating your landscaping to be more water-efficient.

water efficient landscaping

But, did you know that Cities across the country will pay you cash to do it?

As water supplies dwindle and populations rise, many municipalities are offering great incentives for reducing water use in the landscape.  When property owners, businesses, or managers factor in the payback from these rebates along with the water and maintenance savings, a landscape renovation can make a lot of sense.

The 2 Main Types of Rebates

Generally speaking, incentives for reducing water use fall into two categories.  The first category is paying customers to remove landscapes that have high water use and replace them with attractive low water use plantings, and the second category is to provide rebates for purchasing and installing irrigation components that reduce water use and that are more efficient than older systems.

As we have discussed in the past, the real water savings (as well as the largest rebates) come from replacing high water use lawns and landscaping, with new plantings that require less water and are more adapted to the local climate.  There are many benefits to this approach- see The Top 10 Benefits of Making Landscaping More Water Efficient.

14 Specific Examples of Rebate Programs

Albuquerque, New Mexico

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $0.75 per square foot for single family homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Rebates for smart controllers, rain sensors, rotary nozzles, and equipment for removing sod and placing compost.

Additional Program Notes:  Rebates of up to $150.00 are also offered for rainwater collection systems, and with the installation of a rainwater collection system the incentives double to $1.50 per square foot.  Residents may also receive a $20.00 credit for attending a water efficiency class.

Salt Lake City, Utah

Equipment Rebates:  Rebates for smart water controllers, weather sensors, and moisture sensors for single homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Additional Program Notes:  Rebates include 50% of the purchase price for valves, and $75.00 per drip zone installed.

Aurora, Colorado

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $1.00 per square foot, up to $10,000 for single family homes, and up to $25,000 for multi-family or commercial properties.

Additional Program Notes:  Rebates are also available for removing old hardscapes, and for seeding areas with native grasses.

Denver, Colorado

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $18.50 per 1,000 gallons of water saved for multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Single family residential customers can receive $2.00 per efficient nozzle and $100.00 for weather-based smart controllers with rain sensors.  Multi-family or commercial properties can receive $2.00 per efficient nozzle, and 25% of the cost of a smart controller.

Boulder, Colorado

Equipment Rebates:  Single family residential customers can receive up to $1,000 for installing smart controllers and rain sensors.  Multi-family or commercial properties can receive up to $5,000 for installing smart controllers and rain sensors.

Additional Program Notes:  Rebates are also available for rotary nozzles, mpr spray heads, pressure reducing drip valves, and backflow prevention devices specifically made for drip systems.

Louisville, Colorado

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $0.25 per square foot for installing drought tolerant Buffalo Grass for single family homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Rebates of $50.00 for moisture sensors, and 50% of the purchase price of a drip irrigation system are available for single family homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Castle Rock, Colorado

Equipment Rebates:  Single family residential customers can receive up to $550.00 for installing smart controllers, rain sensors, and rotary nozzles.  Multi-family or commercial properties can receive up to $3,550.00 for installing smart controllers, rain sensors, and rotary nozzles.

Additional Program Notes:  Rotary nozzle rebates are available for up to $200.00 for single family residential, and up to $2,000 for multi-family or commercial properties.  Rebates are available for 50% of the purchase price of smart controllers and rain sensors.

Peoria, Arizona

Incentives for Removing Turf:  Rebates of up to $1,650 are available for single family homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Rebates of up to $250.00 are available for installing  smart controllers.

Chandler, Arizona

Incentives for Removing Turf:  Up to $3,000 for single family homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Single family residential customers can receive up to $250.00 for installing smart controllers.  Multi-family or commercial properties can receive up to $1,250.00 for installing smart controllers.

Additional Program Notes:  A minimum area of 1,000 square feet of turf must be removed to qualify for turf removal incentives.

Las Vegas, Nevada

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $1.50 to $1.00 per square foot, up to $300,000 for single family and multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  50% of the cost of smart controllers, and $25.00 for rain sensors for single family and multi-family or commercial properties.

San Diego, California

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $1.50 per square foot up to $3,000 for single family homes, and $1.50 per square foot up to $9,000 for multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Single family residential customers can receive up to $400.00 for installing smart controllers.  Multi-family or commercial properties can receive $25.00 per station up to 68 stations ($1,700) for installing a smart controller.

Additional Program Notes:  Rebates of $0.50 for every gallon of storage capacity up to 400 gallons are offered for rainwater collection systems.

Santa Clara, California

Incentives for Removing Turf:  $0.75 per square foot up to $2,000 is available for for single family homes, and $0.75 per square foot up to $20,000 is available for multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Rebates are available for smart controllers, rain sensors, rotary nozzles, and dedicated landscape meters.

Additional Program Notes:  Rebates of $1.50 per square foot up to $30,000 are also available for commercial properties through a “cost sharing areas” program.

Austin, Texas

Equipment Rebates:  Single family residential customers can receive up to $375.00 in equipment rebates.  Multi-family properties can receive up to $500.00 for new equipment.

Additional Program Notes:  Rain water harvesting rebates of up to $5,000 are available for no-pressurized or pressurized systems.

San Antonio, Texas

Incentives for Removing Turf:  Rebates of up to $400.00 are available for reducing water bill for single family homes and multi-family or commercial properties.

Equipment Rebates:  Rebates of up to $3,200 are available for installing smart controllers, rain sensors, and rotary nozzles.

Additional Program Notes:  Incentives are offered for capping irrigation zones and/or converting existing irrigation systems to drip.

 

These incentive and rebate programs are typically limited to a maximum allowable rebate amount based on the area of the project, and the purchase price of the irrigation components.  Many of the programs also are only available on a first come first serve basis.  With limited funding many municipalities exhaust their funds in the first few months of the year.  Other program requirements include selecting plants from specific drought tolerant or native plant lists, percentage of plant area coverage, and the make and model of irrigation components.

Because of the complexity of the projects and the paperwork involved, it may make sense to have a landscape architect assist you for a moderate fee.  These professional consultants can prepare any plans that are needed, submit applications, gain approval from local building departments and HOA’s, and maximize the potential rebate amount you will get back.

In addition, most states require a licensed landscape architect to prepare plans for any major renovation on a commercial or larger residential property.  The fees for these services are often offset by the savings that come from having a good plan that can be accurately bid and installed by contractors.

So, if you are looking to make your property more sustainable, update it’s image, and save on maintenance and water, look into what programs may be available in your area.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects.  For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

Photo of the Day – Beautiful Beech Tree with Pink Leaf Margins

by Matt Corrion

tri color beech tree

I took this photo a few years ago while traveling through Germany.  I believe that this is a Tri Color Beech or Fagus sylvatica ‘Roseo-Marginata’.  We were in a park that had several huge, towering trees that were covered in a pink hue!  I had never noticed trees like these before.

When we got back home, I did a little research and the consensus seemed to be that these beech trees do not grow so well here in Colorado.  However, I just looked it up in the Front Range Tree Recommendation List, and it was given a “B” grade (not too bad).  Has anyone out there planted these?  What experiences can you share about this tree?

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

3 Comments »

The 10 Best Evergreen Xeriscape Plants for Colorado

by Matt Corrion

Evergreens are important Xeriscape plants for Colorado landscapes.  Since lawn areas are often limited in Xeriscaping design, evergreen plants can step right in to provide rich green color all year long.

Evergreen plants also provide great contrast with other plants, particularly with the the foliage and seed heads of ornamental grasses, and as a backdrop for flowering shrubs and perennials.  And evergreens can often be utilized to effectively create privacy and screen or block undesirable views in the landscape.

I am limiting this top 10 list to evergreen shrubs.  Another very interesting category of plants are the so called “semi-evergreens”, which are deciduous plants that keep all or part of their foliage throughout the winter.  I will do a future list of the top semi-evergreen Xeriscape plants. I am also excluding large trees from this list, as they are a category unto themselves and many people are already familiar with evergreen tree choices.

Although this is a Colorado list, most of these plants can be used in many places throughout the world depending on the local climate.

Manzanita

  • Panchito Manzanita – Arctostaphylos x coloradoensis ‘Panchito’   Panchito Manzanita is a low growing woody shrub with shiny, oval, dark green leaves that persist throughout the winter. It gets small, pale pink flowers followed by small red berries- but it’s best characteristics are the evergreen foliage and the fact that it requires little care or water.  The only time I have had an issue with this plant was when it was placed in an area with very poor soil and poor drainage- even then, the plant looked healthy, it just didn’t get any larger.
  • Kinnickinnick – Arctostaphylos uva-ursi    Since the Mock Bearberry and Panchito Manzanitas have become some of my favorite plants, I started taking a second look at their cousin the Kinnickinnick.  This plant has been around for a long time and thrives in the eastern U.S.  Here in Colorado, it needs full to partial shade and requires a little more water.  It stays a little smaller than the other Manzanitas, but since there are so few evergreens that thrive in shade it is an invaluable plant.

Oregon Grape Holly

  • Oregon Grape Holly - Mahonia aquifolium    I consider Oregon Grape Holly to be an evergreen plant, even though that may not be botanically correct.  It has large, glossy leaves that persist through winter, turning bronze-red, and gets clusters of small yellow flowers in the spring.  It can handle a ton of different conditions, from partial sun, through full shade, and doesn’t seem to mind the toughest clay soil.  This plant is a true staple of the Colorado Xeriscape.  Oregon Grape Holly gets about 4-6 feet wide and tall, with the “compacta” variety staying about half of that size.
  • Yucca – Yucca ssp.    Native to the Southwestern United States and Mexico, Yuccas are another plant that is not generally thought of as an evergreen.  But they are just about the perfect evergreen plant for a Xeriscape!  Yuccas provide really good steady green foliage that can blend in with other plants or be used as a statement with it’s unique form.  A tall stalk of white flowers appears in summer to make these plants all the more interesting.  All that, from plant that is native to Colorado and requires no maintenance or no supplemental watering!  Note: Red Yucca is another great plant that gets red flowers instead of white.  It’s scientific name is Hesperaloe parviflora.

Agave parryi

  • Agave – Agave parryi    Agaves are very similar to Yuccas, and provide many of the same benefits.  They tend to grow slower, and are a little smaller, so I recommend using them closer to pathways so their foliage can be enjoyed.  Agaves only flower once every 25 years, sending up a very tall flower stalk.  After they flower, the parent plant dies, and is replaced bu suckers from the root.
  • Dwarf Globe Blue Spruce – Picea pungens ‘Glauca Globosa’    Most people would not consider this a true Xeriscape plant, but I am including it because I have had very good luck with these plants in Xeriscapes.  Being a spruce, they do require a little more watering until they are established.  However I have seen these plants used in low water use landscaped on the same drip zone as true Xeriscape plants and they have thrived.  The blue color and the fact that they stall relatively compact are characteristics that cannot be found with any other plants that I am aware of.

Mugo Pine

  • Mugo Pine – Pinus mugo ssp.    Mugo pines can provide very good dark green color, and are perfectly adapted to Colorado’s climate.  They are a perfect accent to boulders and flowering perennials.  Be sure to give them plenty of room, they are slow growing and are usually pretty small at the time of planting- however most of the varieties will get quite large over time.
  • Spreading Junipers – Juniperus horizontalis ssp.    Junipers have been given a bad name, as we have written about before, but creeping or spreading junipers require little maintenance and can be very valuable parts of a well designed Xeriscape.  These plants work well when mixed with a variety of flowering and deciduous plants and grasses.  They can provide good ground coverage and green color to break up large mulch areas and as understory between shrubs.  Varieties such as “Youngstown” and “Blue Chip” offer a variety of green to blue-green hues.

Upright Junipers in Xeriscape

  • Upright Junipers – Juniperus scopulorum ssp.    These upright shrubs can work well as vertical elements in a Xeriscape (as seen above), or to provide screening of utility areas.  Some of the varieties stay very narrow, which can be invaluable in tight spaces where evergreen trees would get far too wide.  Be wary of limb breakage in very heavy snows, especially with very narrow varieties such as “Skyrocket”.  Junipers are native to Colorado and require very little water, care, or maintenance.
  • Compact Tanyosho Pine – Pinus densiflora ‘Globosa’    Compact Tanyosho Pine is a unique large shrub or small tree that has a very nice dark green color and requires minimal maintenance.  It is one of the rare evergreen trees that stays very compact, yet requires little water unlike many of the other dwarf conifers.  It also has an interesting form, with one or multiple bare trunks at the base with the needles forming a mound at the top.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

POLL: If You Could Have Your Landscaping Re-done in Any Style, Which of These Styles Would You Choose?

by Matt Corrion

We are conducting a new poll to learn more about the attitudes of people toward different landscape styles.  Please take a moment and vote below- Thanks!

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

USDA Releases New Updated Plant Hardiness Zone Maps

by Matt Corrion

New USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

On January 25th, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) released an updated version of their Plant Hardiness Zone Map.  Here are some excerpts from the USDA website, where you can also view and download the new maps:

The 2012 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which plants are most likely to thrive at a location. The map is based on the average annual minimum winter temperature, divided into 10-degree F zones.
 
For the first time, the map is available as an interactive GIS-based map, for which a broadband Internet connection is recommended, and as static images for those with slower Internet access. Users may also simply type in a ZIP Code and find the hardiness zone for that area.
 
No posters of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map have been printed. But state, regional, and national images of the map can be downloaded and printed in a variety of sizes and resolutions.

My thoughts:  It is kind of surprising that the maps have not been updated since 1990.

You can enter your zip code, search by state, or simply click on your state on the national map to get a new state map.

Colorado, like most places, got a little warmer.  Now Zone 3 only includes areas at high elevations.  The foothills are a mix of Zone 4 and 5, and the urban “heat island effect” is taken into consideration with Denver in Zone 6.  What changes are you seeing for your area?

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

Photo of the Day – Creative Use of Logs for a Stream Crossing

by Matt Corrion

photo of a stump bridge
I took this photo at a small botanical garden in Prague.  It isn’t so much a stream crossing, but rather a wet bog area.  What I like about this is that it causes you to pause… and ask, what am I about to step on? are they floating?  The designer might consider putting small details around this area, since the visitor will be forced to slow down to watch their step.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

Building a Deck – What is the Best Decking Material?

by Guest Writer

If you’re in the market to replace your existing deck or want to build a new one, you will want to know what products are available and what your contractor can do with them.

A beautiful deck starts with careful planning and design.  The best looking deck often reflects some architectural elements from the house and uses them in the deck.  If you have multiple decks on your home consider using matching handrails and decking material for uniformity.  Consult with your builder or designer for the many options available today.

Custom Deck with Overhead PergolaOverall deck costs tend to range from $25-$35 per square foot and cost varies due to height and complexity of construction.  The cheapest decking material on the market is probably pressure treated pine the most expensive include exotic hardwood species and top-end coated composite decking.  Here is a quick run-down on some of the decking materials available:

Decking Materials:

Redwood – soft wood prone to damage from hail, includes the removal of old growth forests that take centuries to recover.  Redwood takes hundreds of years to mature and therefore is not a sustainable wood source.  Redwood coast around $3-4 per linear foot depending upon the quality ordered.

IPE – Brazilian rainforest lumber that is very dense (hard) and durable.  It has a dark color and requires pre-drilling for fasteners.  I do not know of any that is sustainably grown / harvested lumber.  IPE costs around $4 per linear foot depending on thickness used.

Tigerwood – Brazillian or African rainforest lumber that is very dense (hard) and durable.  It has a light dark color variation (tiger striping) and requires pre-drilling for fasteners.  I do not know of any that is sustainably grown / harvested lumber.  Tigerwood costs around $4 per linear foot depending on thickness used.

Cedar – Soft wood prone to damage from hail, be sure to specify better grades of wood and tight knot or better, can come rough sawn for beams or trimmers and  works well for handrails.   Tight knot cedar cost around $2 per linear foot and the price almost doubles for clear cedar.

Pressure treated pine:  Typically made from southern yellow pine which is pressure treated forcing chemicals into the wood that resist rotting and insect damage.  The treatments usually contain copper compounds & other chemicals that are highly corrosive to metals, so extra zinc treatment to galvanized fasteners is recommended to avoid rusting.  Older treated wood, produced prior to 2004, often contain arsenic & chromium which can be easily released if burned.  It is important to allow the wood to dry out prior to staining or sealing.  Pressure treated wood is prone to warping, splitting and twisting and these qualities seem to be exacerbated in dry climates.  I believe that staining & sealing these woods can help their look and performance.  P.T. pine should be either screwed in place nailed with 16d ring shank nails all fasteners should be hot dipped galvanized.

Composite:

Should you use real wood or composite decking?  In the last ten years composite decking materials (plastic/ wood particles glued together) have taken hold of the market and are used on over half the decks being built.  Several companies use 90% recycled plastics in their products which will help reduce waste.  However, I do not know of any composites that are recyclable when they need replacement.  If decking could be continually recycled it would truly be a sustainable product, but no companies, to my knowledge, have produced such a product.  All composite decking materials rely on a type of adhesive or glue that bond all of the plastic and wood particles together.  These adhesives can be any number of polymers(resin) some which can cause environmental concern if released into the environment especially if burned.  The life span of composite decking is similar to a wood deck that is maintained, around 25 years.  Eventually all decking materials will end up in a landfill.

There are around ten different companies producing composite deck materials in the U.S. with Trex being one of the first and widely know.  These materials include decking and handrail systems and most companies offer different product lines that vary in color and consistency.  One California company even offers a bamboo composite BamDeck which uses 30% bamboo and 70% recycled plastic.

The cost of composite decking varies from $2-$4 per linear foot of decking board.  Common sizes for composite decking boards are 12’, 16’, 18’ and some 24’ lengths are available from certain manufacturers.  Try to design your deck so that no butt joints are required.  Composite boards require spacing butt joints from 1/8”-1/4” for board expansion which can be unsightly.

THE GOOD

  • Composite decking does not require as much maintenance as natural wood products.
  • Does not splinter or split.
  • Have built in slip resistance.
  • Are consistent in color, shape, and texture.
  • Grooved boards can utilize hidden fastener systems which are attractive.
  • Boards can be heated and bent into circular patterns.
  • Boards are often made with recycled plastic materials up to 90%, which make it more sustainable.

THE BAD

  • Boards without a pvc treatment are prone to staining from many different sources.  PVC treatments usually cost around $1 more per linear foot of board.
  • Material holds heat and can reach temperatures that will burn bare feet in the summer.
  • Material is not structural and typically requires a maximum joist spacing of 16 inches, which also limits what can be done with handrails.
  • Material shrinks and swells more that wood which requires spacing at butt joints if used.
  • Material requires pre-drilling in many circumstances for fasteners.
  • Catastrophic failure, rapid deterioration is possible and almost all manufacturers have had to warranty their product for this reason at one time.
  • Material is not recyclable.
  • Polymers used to glue product together can be harmful if released into the environment, i.e. burning.

People often ask me what is the best composite to use and to be honest I don’t know.  The reason for this is that almost all of the companies making composite materials have produced materials that have failed and needed to be replaced.

In 2009 Louisiana Pacific recalled around 48 million linear foot of decking that was sold under three different trade names (WeatherBest®, ABTCo., and Veranda®).  Many other companies have had warranty claims for products that are less than five years old.  When composite decking fails you will often notice that the color comes off like chalk when you rub it with a finger.

Once composite decking boards start to fail, they can simply start to rot or you may notice flaking, splits, bubbling or other abnormalities.  Boards can also break between joists in extreme failures causing injury.  Warranties vary from company to company, but in general you can expect a limited 20 year warranty.  One thing to note is that the manufacturer’s warranty will only cover material replacement, not labor to remove the old boards and replace them, which can be a substantial cost.  Therefore, do your homework and make an informed decision based on a company’s track record.

Some things you should consider if you are planning to use composite decking:

  • Texture (slip resistance) especially in frost prone areas.
  • Color – try to compliment your homes color.  Most composite deck materials fade 30% in the first year and then stabilize.  Some even change color so look at samples that have been weathered when possible.
  • Cost – almost everyone is on a budget so pick the best material you can afford.
  • Warranty – since there have been failures in the past research the company’s products that you are considering and find out their track record and read the fine print on warranties.
  • Maintenance – consult manufacturer’s suggestions but most can be cleaned with mild soaps and water.

There are a lot of things to consider when it comes time to build or replace a deck.  A new deck can cost as much as a new car so take the time to weigh your options and hire a competent builder.  I suggest that you not only talk with a builder’s past client but also take the time to see one of their completed projects.

No decking is completely environmentally friendly or sustainable.  In general, many of the natural wood decking products available are from hardwoods or slow growing softwoods which make them less sustainable.  Pressure treated southern yellow pine is a faster growing, more sustainable wood product but it utilizes chemicals for rot and insect resistance.  If the composite decking industry can develop a product that is recyclable and will consistently perform it will climb to the top of the sustainability chart and my “A” list.

This is a guest post by Bruce Kehr.  The owner of Sunlit Builders, LLC, Bruce is one of the top deck builders in Colorado.  You can reach Bruce via email at info@sunlitbuilders.com.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

Should Ornamental Grasses be Cut Back for the Winter?

by Matt Corrion

Ornamental grasses are more popular than ever, and for good reason.  They can add texture to the landscape, and they are tough plants that are easy to grow in a variety of conditions.  Ornamental Grasses in WinterOrnamental grasses can also add beauty to the winter landscape.

But should ornamental grasses be cut back to the ground in winter?

Most ornamental grasses develop tall seed heads late in the summer that naturally persist through the winter.  When temperatures start to drop the plant will die back, leaving the dried foliage, stalks, and seed heads.  The general rule that you should cut back the grasses before the next growing season, so that the new year’s growth will be more vigorous and healthy.

I have found a couple of exceptions to this here in the Denver area, particularly with Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima), which did not regenerate as well or look as good the year after I cut it back.  I have since started leaving it uncut, which results is the new growth coming up right through the beautiful finely textured golden old growth.  But with most varieties, they should be cut back before new growth starts in the spring.

So the question, then, is whether you should cut them back in the fall, or wait until the spring.  Many people enjoy the colors and movement that these elements provide in winter.  Others prefer a more “neat” or formal look.

I thought it would be interesting to explore the advantages each approach:

ornamental grasses winter interest

Advantages of leaving the grasses for the winter and waiting until the spring to cut them back

  • When shrubs lose their leaves, and perennials wither to the ground, grasses can provide form in the landscape
  • Texture:  Interesting textures can stand out, collecting frost or snow, and reflecting sunlight
  • Movement:  Winter winds and soft breezes can move and sway the stems and seed heads of ornamental grasses
  • The grasses can add color to the drab winter landscape, including shades of reds, yellows, browns, and blues
  • Upright grasses can be used to help screen views when deciduous plants have lost their leaves
  • The grasses can provide habitat and shelter for birds and other small animals

ornamental grasses cut back in winter
Advantages of cutting back ornamental grasses right away in the fall or early winter

  • This can be interesting and different look, I have seen some nice formal plantings that looked stunning with the grasses cut back
  • Some grasses hold their form better than others, while some varieties may flop over under heavy snow
  • Cutting them back may give the impression (rightly or wrongly) that a commercial landscape is being better maintained
  • In some cases the grasses may block sight lines, such as to important signage in a shopping center
  • In high foot traffic areas, it may be beneficial to cut back ornamental grasses to avoid them being trampled

So what do you think, is one method better than the other?  My personal taste is to leave the grasses up all winter, but there are situations where you may want to cut them back.  And you can always decide to cut them back later, if you feel the need to tidy them up.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.


Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

Why Do Water Providers Want You to Use Less Water?

by Matt Corrion

It’s good for the environment.Photo of Old Water Tower

It can save you money on water bills and maintenance.

There are many reasons for you to renovate your landscaping to save water.  But why would a water provider or utility want you to use less of what they provide- water?

Since we work with customers to reduce their water-use, we hear this question quite often.  It does seem counter intuitive:  Why would someone who is in the business of selling water want you to use less of it- in many cases offering rebates and incentives to do so?

Can you imagine a Walmart employee standing outside of the store offering to give you $20 back, if you spent LESS money inside the store?

There are a few key reasons why water conservation is encouraged by water providers:

First, water demand will always continue to increase, regardless of how much our water use is reduced.  Population growth and land development put a great deal of strain on our water supply and the water delivery system.

Because the demand will always be there, it is in the water provider’s best interest to slow the rate of growth as much as possible.  There are large systems for treating, storing, and delivering water that need constant expansion and repair.

Secondly, water conservation is already built into the billing system.  Most water suppliers now use a conservation-oriented “tiered” rate structure.  These rate structures charge a base rate regardless of how much water is used, and separate rates for the levels of water that is actually consumed.

Finally, water utilities often consist of complex public/private partnerships, so there are environmental and public health considerations that are just as important as profit.  Would we really want our water system to be based totally on how much revenue and profit could be generated?

When considering the public good in terms of water conservation, there are numerous considerations:  Preparedness for droughts; the health of our rivers, lakes, and streams, and aquifers; impacts to other cities and states “downstream”; and even national security.

This is the official blog of Outdoor Design Group, Colorado Landscape Architects. For more information about our business and our services, click here.

 

Be Sociable, Share!

Related Posts:

Leave a Comment »

« Older Entries